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Saturday, 22 December 2012

Top 50 wines tasted in 2012






Its time for the inevitable. A look back on what the year of 2012 brought to the table. Some wines have been tasted several times this year, some have been tasted earlier, and some for the first time. When I looked through the thousands of tasting notes, it's pretty clear that I'm spoiled rotten. And teher are a staggering amount of excellent wines that are not even here. Some wines are only juice and will outlast me, others at peak or just off it. It's a lot of French wines, but that is also what I taste by far the most of. These are listed as they are now, and some will undoubtedly change place if retasted in the years to come. Every year I say its impossible to top the previous, but this list? I think that would be difficult.....




Top ten wines tasted 2012

1961 Château Ausone (Released from the château 2007)

2001 Château d’Yquem

1832 Barbeito Terrantez

1989 Château Haut-Brion

1900 D’Oliveiras Malvazia

2009 Château Margaux

2009 Château Latour

2007 DRC Romanée-Conti

2004 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne

2007 DRC Montrachet



And the next fourty

1970 Château Latour

1986 Château Lafite Rothschild

2009 Château Petrus

2009 Château Lafite Rothschild 99

1927 Cockburn’s Vintage Port

1967 Château Suduiraut

2005 Dominum Tokaji Essencia

1949 Château Cheval Blanc

1999 Armand Rousseau Chambertin

1928 Château Ausone 95

2008 Armand Rousseau Chambertin

1990 Château Cheval Blanc

2004 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet

2005 Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze

1989 Château Montrose

2008 Lamy-Pillot Le Montrachet

2009 DRC Romanée-Conti

1986 Château Léoville Las Cases

1986 Château Margaux

1945 Château Cheval Blanc

1982 Château Haut-Brion

1986 Château Haut-Brion

2002 DRC La Tâche

1945 Château Pontet-Canet

2004 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues- Bâtard- Montrachet

1975 Château Latour 97-98

1998 Armand Rousseau Chambertin

1970 Château Lafite Rothschild

1964 Château Latour

1983 Château Trotanoy

1990 Château Montrose

1985 Sassicaia

1970 Château Léoville Las Cases

1998 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

2003 Château Mouton Rothschild

2004 DRC La Tâche

1995 Château Mouton Rothschild

1963 Fonseca’s Vintage Port

1988 Krug

1945 Clos Fourtet

1976 Château d-Yquem

Mysterious 1999 Yquem



Two mysterious bottles of the 1999 Château d’Yquem was opened last Tuesday. The first was so flat it bordered on water with a touch of sugar. The second bottle tasted like a cheap negociants Sauternes. On Wednesday morning the first bottle was returned to the Monopoly in Norway where they claimed it was excellent. I doubt it could have been, but I retasted mine on Wednesday evening, and it had gained some fruit and had almost some length. It was on a good negociants or petit château level. Thursday it gained more fruit and aftertaste; it was on a Château de Myrat level. On Friday I tasted it yet again, and it had gained, more fruit, almost creamy and apricots and the acidity was back. Long aftertaste and made me think of Guiraud 96. Today, on Saturday morning I took a few sips and it’s even fresher, with apricots, nuts, and some honey and creamier feel. Very fresh acidity and a quite intense palate with a long finish. Not an optimal bottle, but getting close. Very close. A bottle of 1996 was opened next to these on Tuesday and that was perfect and confirmed that these two were far off the mark. I thought it might be modern cork that robs the wine off fruit, but without the TCA off aromas. But whatever was wrong on Tuesday is here no more. Who said wine was a simple topic? If you are an art critic, the Picasso in front of you will never look like something from a nobody now will it?

Thursday, 20 December 2012

06 Domaine de Chevalier blanc

2006 Domaine de Chevalier blanc:
Pale lemon yellow. A somewhat richer and fuller nose for DdC blanc, but also typical lemons, minerals and apples with a touch of grapefruit. Quite intense nose. Fresh acidity, full bodied and some nutty and vanilla flavours, almost smoky, before lemons and a more focused aftertaste sets in. Oak is a bit up front both on nose and palate at this stage, so give it a few more years. Very long. 93

Monday, 17 December 2012

Elegant vertical of Rhône wines, Vidal-Fleury



The oldest family run wine estate in Rhôn, since 1781. Buys grapes from same vignerons in the Southern Rhône every year, owns vineyards but also buys in the northern. Northern Rhône produces only five percent of the volume. Owned by Guigal since 1976 since no family members wanted to continue.

2010 Vidal-Fleury Côtes du Rhône:
Deep ruby, pink rim. Plums, ripe, slightly scented and blackberries. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, sweet but balanced, quite elegant. 82

2009 Vidal-Fleury Crozes-Hermitage:
Deep ruby. Scented, blueberries, layered and slightly peppery. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruit driven and refreshing. Minerals. Good length. 86

2010 Vidal-Fleury Châteauneuf du Pape:
Deep ruby. Scented nose, fresh plums, blackberries and ever so slightly floral. Fresh acidity, quite high even, ripe tannins, somewhat herbal, a bit sweet finish, but balanced. Good length. 86

2006 Vidal-Fleury Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde:
Ruby, garnet rim. Licorice, minerals, prunes and scented notes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant body and texture, somewhat sweet overtone more from fruit than alcohol. Graphite. Good length. Opens up with air. Nuanced. 89

2005 Vidal-Fleury Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde:
Deep ruby. Thin garnet rim. Tight nose, massive, scented, vanilla, plums, blackberries, graphite, very dense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, luckilly less massive palate, somewhat sweet and ripe, a bit short, longer with air. 89

1999 Vidal-Fleury Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde:
Deep ruby, garnet rim. Plums, prunes, some figs and licorice. Minerals, lovely nose. Fresh acidity, quite high of ripe tannin. Some sweet plums and minerals on the palate, somewhat earthy minerals, licorice. Opens up with air. 88

2005 Vidal-Fleury Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde La Chatillonne:
Deep ruby. Animal notes, peppery, blackberries, scented and somewhat herbal.  Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, sweet and rich, yet not that big. Quite refreshing, a bit sweet finish. 90

2004 Vidal-Fleury Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde La Chatillonne:
Ruby. Peppery, some hung meat, starting prunes, plums, minerals and scented.  Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner style, quite elegant, refreshing and balanced.  Long. 90+

1995 Vidal-Fleury Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde La Chatillonne:
Deep ruby, garnet rim. Pepper, licorice, some blueberries and some minerals. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing, maturing nicely, long peppery finish. 91

2009 Vidal-Fleury Muscat de Beaumes de Venise:
Watery lemon yellow. Sweet grapey nose. Freshish acidity, somewhat 'heavy' for it's style and I would like it lighter. Not that long. 82

Finally a tasting of not one, but many wines from the Rhône were extraction and alcohol isn't up front and overshadowing. Nuanced and elegant wines. 

Tuesday, 11 December 2012

New cellar and offices at Château Angelus


A new and compared to Cheval Blanc, far more classic builing is raising at Angelus. The proximity to the historical town of Saint-Emilion means they can't do whatever they want Jean-Bernard Grenié explains to me during my last visit. Personally I find this project looking far nicer than the before mentioned. Beautiful wood carvings and details everywhere. 


Jean- Bernard Grenié showing me around the construction site.


Some of the building materials have been reused from old and demolished buildings to get the right feel of age. This builing will look like its been here for years and maybe even centuries when finished. 


Lots of details in the wood and each beam have a carving from a certain time of the winemaking process. From pruning to finished wine. 


Almost cathedral like roof construction.


Five vintages of Château Villemaurine






2007 Château Villemaurine:
Ruby. Coffee, blueberries and vanilla. Deep but not too rich. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced fruit driven palate, not too complex but well made. 88

2008 Château Villemaurine:
Deep ruby. Spices, plums, blueberries, dark chocolate and vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, quite lively, deep fruit, balanced and long. 89

2009 Château Villemaurine:
Deep ruby. Dark fruits, vanilla, white chocolate, quite intense nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh palate, fruit driven, acidity works behind the scene, long. 91

2010 Château Villemaurine:
Deep ruby. Rich, intense, but also more nuanced nose. Blueberries, cinamon, vanilla, violets and spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, sweet fruit attack, seems to lack the playfulness of the vintage, very long and intense. 92

2011 Château Villemaurine:
Opaque, purple rim. Blueberries, spicy, violets, feels layered. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced and refreshing even if rich and fruit driven. Very long finish. 91

An estate under fairly new leadership and it seems that the wines are evolving nicely for each new vintage. Some minerals and floral notes turning up more and more for each vintage. I just hope that they don't get tempted into that alcohol and fruit regime that Saint-Emilion has fallen too much in love with. 


2003 Château Figeac


2003 Château Figeac:
(Demi) Decanted for an hour. Bright ruby. Plummy, figs, vanilla, leather and quite seductive nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, quite savory, elegant and rounded. Lovely 03 that ages gracefully. 93

Château Nenin vertical at the estate







1997 Fugue de Nenin:
(2nd Ch. Nenin) Ruby with garnet rim. Figs, blueberries, vanilla and anise. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant body and texture, drinking lovely at this stage, good length. 86

1999 Fugue de Nenin:
(2nd Ch. Nenin) Ruby. Elegant nose of anise, blueberries and slightly floral notes. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, rounded and smooth. Balanced, not too long but charming. 88

2009 Fugue de Nenin:
(2nd Ch. Nenin) Ruby. Almost peppery over ripe blueberries and vanilla. Quite intense. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, younf, vigorous, needs a few years, slightly raw still. 89

1998 Château Nenin:
Ruby with garnet rim. Lovely and seductive nose. Plums and blueberries, figs, chocolate, cinamon and vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lovely balance, still needs cellaring for my palate, or at least a few hours in decanter. Long. 93

2006 Château Nenin:
Ruby. Ripe morellos, blueberries and vanilla. Tight now. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fleshy but not overly ripe, needs ten years. Long. 91 for now.

2010 Château Nenin:
Deep ruby. Very fruit forward, violets, vanilla and blueberries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, mouthwatering and elegant, pure feel. Long. 93


2011 Ch. Ferrande blanc


2011 Château Ferrande blanc:
Lemon yellow. Honey, melon, touch of grape fruit, some minerals and vanilla. Fresh acidity, a bit oaky, not that intense but a well made inexpensive white Graves. 80

2011 Robert Weil Spätlese

2011 Robert Weil Riesling Spätlese:
Pale lemon yellow. Lime, minerals, apples and a touch of grapefruit. Fresh and elegant acidity, lovely balance, kinder style meaning very balanced acidity/body and fruitiness. Straight forward, good length. 88

Four from Clinet


2010 Ronan by Clinet:
Bright ruby. Some cassis, touch of spices and meaty feel. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit edgy first but rounds off quickly in decanter. 84

2010 Fleur de Clinet:
(2nd Ch. Clinet) Bright ruby. Blueberries, minerals, touch of spices and fine tobacco. Fresh acidity, lively feel, ripe tannins. Soft texture and good length. 88

2007 Château Clinet:
Bright ruby. Blueberries, coffee, leather, Pu Erh tea, vanilla, mint, intense and layered nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, very elegant texture, towards seductive if a bit ripe style. Long, slightly woody finish. Needs five years. 93

2010 Château Clinet:
Deep ruby. Morellos, blueberries, scented, everything in a ball now. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing but also rich and opulent. Good length. Needs ten years+. 94

Monday, 10 December 2012

1982 Clos L'Eglise


1982 Clos L'Eglise:
In neck fill, from a British cellar were its supposed to have rested for its entire life since release. Ruby with thin orange rim. Sweet prunes, figs, leanish, sous bois with licorice below it all. Fresh acidity, tannins gone, ripe feel, but also lean and verging on drying up. The fruit that is still there is on full alert, but most of it has gone to somewhere were it's not comming back from. A bit short. 87

Sunday, 9 December 2012

Vertical of inexpensive Chablis. Dom. Chenevrieres back to 1996

2010 Domaine des Chenevrieres Chablis Vielles Vignes:
Watery lemon. Easy going minerals and apply nose. Fresh acidity, elegant but not that fruity, balanced, good length. 85

2008 Domaine des Chenevrieres Chablis Vielles Vignes:
(Magnum) Pale lemon yellow. Some nuts and butter starting to appear, still apples and minerals. Fresh acidity, elegant body, slightly nutty finish. 86

2003 Domaine des Chenevrieres Chablis Vielles Vignes:
(Magnum) Lemon yellow. Richer nose, nuts, butter and ripe apples. Lacks some acidity and freshness, but holds out remarably well considering that this is not an expensive wine. On the rich side for its fairly light body and texture. 85

2000 Domaine des Chenevrieres Chablis Vielles Vignes:
(Magnum) Lemon yellow. Some nuts and butter over ripe apples. Fresh acidity, elegant fruit and body. Good enough length. 87

1996 Domaine des Chenevrieres Chablis Vielles Vignes:
(Magnum) Lemon yellow. Back to more apples and minerals with more subdued nuts and butter. Fresh acidity, riper feel on the palate, fruit rounds off and minerals play first violin. Good length. 87

2010 Domaine des Chenevrieres Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume:
Towards pale lemon. Apples and citrus on the nose with flinty minerals. Fresh acidity, lean but pure feel, good length. 87

2010 Domaine des Chenevrieres Chablis 1er Cru Homme Mort:
Towards pale lemon yellow. Apples, more chalky minerals and some citrus. Fresh acidity, fuller body, balanced, good length. 88

Corked 06 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey 1er Cru

2006 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes:
Corked

Faustino I vertical back to 1964


 All bottles came directly from the cellars of Bodegas Faustino.


2001 Faustino de Autor:
Ruby. Scented, blueberries and licorice, some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant fruit not drowned in barrel notes, good length. 89

2000 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Ruby. Scented, roses, blueberries, licorice and vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshing and playful, long. 89

1994 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Ruby. Leather, licorice and blueberries. Fruity- Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, refreshingly fruitdriven still, as it used to be, and surprisingly little have happened since the first bottles I've tried almost ten years ago. I've had some bottles in between from different collectors cellars not as pure and up front as this, comming directly from Faustino. A lovely wine, just as I remember it. 90+

1991 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Ruby. Scented, floral, blueberries and vanilla. Fresh acidity, tannins letting go, playful, eleagnt and long. Balanced and fresh feel. 90

1970 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Bright ruby, thin brick rim. Figs, prunes, blueberries and scented notes. Lovely nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, still lovely fruit but drying ever so slightly around the edges if I'm picky. I think the freshest and best bottle I've tried of the '70. 89

1964 Faustino I Gran Reserva:
Bright ruby, broad brick rim. Figs, prunes, some vanilla and somewhat dusty. Fresh acidity, drying texture, less dry and dusty than most bottles I've tried of Faustino I in this vintage, and it's quite a few actually, drink it if you have it. 84

Four whites from Jadot

2011 Louis Jadot Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume:
Pale lemon yellow. Lime and green apples with chalky minerals. Fresh acidity, fruity for Chablis, good length. 88

2009 Louis Jadot Chassagne-Montrachet:
Pale lemon yellow. More intense citrus, minerals, some barrel notes. Fresh acidity, towards high even, refreshing, a bit rich, balanced, quite long. 89

2010 Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet:
Pale lemon yellow. Barrel notes over apples and lovely minerals. Fresh acidity, creamy texture, could have less oak, but not overshadowing, long and balanced, another somewhat rich Puligny from Jadot. 89

2007 Louis Jadot Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrieres:
Towards golden, starting premox with too much nuts and butter for its age. With a few minutes of air the ox takes over completely. Last bottle was even more oxidized.

Kloster Eberbach Winemakers dinner and tasting


Winemakers dinner at Cru in Oslo with some exceptional matches of wine and food, with two of the courses being amongst the best food and wine matches I've had. As Cru had no menue, I'm affraid my memory can't tell you the exact dishes unfortunatelly. Some of the wines were tasted the day after at a fine wine tasting.


2010 Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Kabinett:
Watery lemon. Floral and apples on the nose. Fresh and elegant acidity backed by elegant fruit and body, good length. 86

2010 Kloster Eberbach Rauenthaler BaikenRiesling Kabinett Trocken:
Watery lemon. Apples, somewhat floral and minerals. Fresh and lively acidity, pure fruit, some minerals, good length. 88

2009 Kloster Eberbach Rauenthaler Baiken Riesling EG:
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, yellow fruits, citrus and minerals. Elegant and fresh acidity, fruitdriven with elegant mineraly nerve, very long. 93

2008 Kloster Eberbach Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling EG:
Pale lemon yellow. Apples, pears, some roses and slightly mineral. Fresh acidity, rounded and elegant, yellow fruits, long. 91

2010 Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Cabinetkeller:
(Magnum) Watery lemon. Apples and orange blossoms nose. Fresh and elegant acidity, rounded body and texture, good length. 88

2007 Kloster Eberbach Steinberger Riesling Cabinetkeller:
(Magnum) Pale lemon yellow.  Apples, some floral notes and yellow fruits, hint of minerals. Fresh acidity, round fruit and body, elegant finish. 87

2010 Kloster Eberbach Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Auslese:
(Demi) Golden. Rich nose of apples and pineapples, very pure and fruity. Fresh and lively acidity, mouthwatering and gorgeous, playful and pure, very long. 94

1993 Kloster Eberbach Heppenheimer Centgericht Ruländer Beerenauslese:
Golden. Rich nose, mature of apples, raisins and some honey. Fresh acidity, rich palate, almost creamy texture, long and playful, superb, very raisiny finish. Very long. 94

1992 Kloster Eberbach Heppenheimer Centgericht Ruländer Beerenauslese:
Amber, golden hue. Rich, botrytised and massive raisins. Fresh acidity, superb texture, veryrich, creme brulé, long. 92


· 

Thursday, 6 December 2012

Gangnam style wine, or Harlan Estate as some call it.


1995 Harlan Estate:
Deep ruby, garnet rim. Rich, hugely intense, vanilla, massive, scented like a tax free shop, all over the place. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, massive body, almost cooked, Gangnam style wine! According to PSY. the man behind the hit Gangnam style, that means to dress classy and dance cheesy. From the urban dictionary cheesy means: 'Trying too hard, unsubtle, and inauthentic. Specifically that which is unsubtle or inauthentic in its way of trying to elicit a certain response from a viewer, listener, audience, etc. Celine Dion is cheesy because her lyrics, timbre, key changes, and swelling orchestral accompaniment telegraph 'i want you to be moved' instead of moving you. Gold chains on an exposed hairy chest are cheesy because they shout out: "I have money and I am manly" instead of impressing a woman in a more subtle way, or allowing a woman to form her own judgments. The excessive showing off suggests he's compensating for what he does not have--i.e., he's actually poor, insecure, or short with an inferiority complex.' Burning alcoholic finish.... 82

Wednesday, 5 December 2012

Mature wine release

I was not present at this particular tasting, these are tasting notes from different tastings of the same wine, same vintage, if tasted, to give my readers a feel for the wines on offer from my point of view. All wines have been tasted within the last three years, most within the last year or so if nothing else is indicated. All notes are the last bottle tasted by me, not necessarily the best. Bottle size only. As this is a cut and paste case, some different letter sizes were not fixable.

1983 Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires Blanc de Blancs Brut:
Golden, tiny bubbles. More mature than the 85, feels somewhat riper with nuts, dried fruits and still some yeasty notes. Fresh and lively acidity, not as tight as some, complex, layered and very long. 95

1986 Château Léoville Las Cases;
In the neck fill, soaked cork. Bright ruby, stunning nose, fresh red berries, cedar, gorgeous and layered, tobacco, leather, cassis. Complex. Fresh acidity, youthful feel, ripe tannins, fruit in a ball still, needs time, extreme length. 97

1989 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande:
Ruby. Stunning nose, leather, cassis, scented, elegant and still quite rich. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lovely texture. Fresh feel to it, mouthwatering, very long. 94

1988 Château Suduiraut;
In the neck fill. Golden, vanilla, tropical, botrytis, heavy nose. Fresh, apricots and tropical notes, has the vintage edgy bitterness that I can never enjoy (same sort of thing with the 89) a bit lean finish, good length. 89

1986 Château Cos d'Estournel:
Neck fill. Ruby, garnet rim, tender nose, well, maybe not tender, but sudued and discreet, especially considering newer vintages of Cos. Opens up, getting richer, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, needed air to open, gives a punch, has everything but could have been longer. Would have been nice to let a bottle sit for longer in the glass. A fine Cos. 93+

1927 D'Oliveiras Bastardo Reserva:
Amber with golden hue. Floral, scented and some raspberries behind dried fruits and nuts. Fresh acidity, high even, mouthwatering, exotic, butter and touch of caramel. Long. Tasted this a few times and this bottle felt less obviously fruity than some of the others, maybe even better for it. 94

1988 Château Pape-Clement:
Deep ruby, garnet rim. Mature nose, minerals, some cassis, leather, so much more subdued and, well maybe not outright refined, but at least more nuanced than todays style. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, figs and dark chocolate, long. 90

1975 Château Montrose;
Bottom neck fill, ruby with garnet rim. Leather, cassis, bell peppers, licorice, morellos, sweet feel and elegant. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, leaner style yes, but elegant and long, lovely bottle. 92

1989 Château Gruaud Larose;
Ruby with garnet rim. Tobacco, scented, slight volatility, liquorice, quite mature aromas. A bit lean body, fresh acidity, maturing but a bit astringent tannins, prunes and some warm fruits, a bit short. 88

1985 Château Figeac;
In the neck fill, bright ruby, garnet rim. Plums, minerals, chocolate, subdued, very seductive, exotic spices and some leather. Fresh acidity, tannins almost gone, flirting, ronded, elegant and long. 92

1989 Château La Croix de Gay:
Ruby, towards brick rim. Figs, earthy, hung meat. Mature nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, soft and mellow mid palate, ever so slightly drying finish. Smoked ham. Drink soon. 88

1985 Château La Tour Haut-Brion: 
Ruby, garnet rim. The always elegant and red berries nose with scented notes and some vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins starting to polish off, fresh and long finish. 92

1989 Château Lanessan: 
Deep ruby. Cassis, leather, dense touch, fruity. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fruit driven and youthful, not that complex or refined, but classic Bordeaux, long. 90

1989 Château Haut-Bailly: 
Deep ruby, garnet rim. Ripe nose, cassis, starting figs and plums, some minerals and vanilla. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, almost lively, ever so slightly dry finish. Long. 90

1985 Château Soutard:
Not tasted recently, my last bottle about six years back was drying. 

1990 Château Bel-Orme Tronquoy de Lalande:
Deep ruby, brick rim. Deep nose, somewhat unrefined with plums and coffee notes. Freshish acidity, ripe tannins, licorice and some vanilla in the finish. 88

1989 Château Camensac: 
Deep ruby. Figs, licorice, leather and cassis. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, starting to round off, fresh and fruity, but slightly drying finish. 88

1985 Château Lanessan: 
Ruby. Ripe cassis, some figs, leather and earthy, blowing over with air. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, slightly herbal and drying finish. 86

1989 Château Fourcas-Dupre:
Deep ruby. Cassis, the estates typical herbs, some wood polish and licorice. Fresh acidity, ripeish tannins, somewhat drying finish. 85

1985 Château Les Ormes-de-Pez:
Ruby. Some cassis, licorice, almost spicy, hung meat and spices. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, somewhat sweet and plummy, slightly dry finish. 88

1975 Château Fourcas-Hosten:
Only a faulty storage bottle tasted, but 70's Fourcas-Hosten is rarely impressive. 

1986 Château Fonbadet:
Not tasted recently, a classic if a bit lean Pauillac tasted about four years back. 

1986 Château Rochemorin:
Not tasted recently, a very oaky and maybe somewhat off bottle about eight years back.

1989 Château de Pez:
Ruby, garnet rim. Cassis, blackberries, some earthy notes and maybe a slightly off bottle. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit plump fruit, figs, lacks nuances. 85

1975 Château Camensac: 
Deep ruby. Figs, prunes, wood polish and leather. Fresh acidity, tight tannins, but starting to let go, drying and somewhat herbal finish. 85

1989 Château Clerc Milon;
Bottom neck fill, soaked cork. Bright ruby, garnet rim. Fresh and lively nose, bell peppers, some leather, cassis, scented, roses, violets, perfect nose, beautiful. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, starting to let go, gorgeous texture, it was stated as one of Decanter's wines of the year back in 1995, it still is. 95

1985 Langoa Barton

1985 Château Langoa Barton:
Deep ruby with starting brick rim. Decanted and open for a few days so some nuances had blown off. Rebottled into smaller screwcap bottles. Remarkably fruity with plums and cassis nose, leather and anise subdued in the background. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, surprisingly youthful and lively after this treatment, very long finish. Lacks nuances, but must have been stunning somewhere along the ride. 90

Small Casa Ferreirinha tasting

2010 Casa Ferreirinha Esteva:
Ruby. Fresh nose, blueberries, plums and smells of wood even if none is used during the winemaking. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, soft and ripe texture, good length. 81

2010 Casa Ferreirinha Papa Figos:
Deep ruby. Scented, roses, blueberries and plums. Fresh enough acidity, ripe tannins, rounded, good length. 83

2009 Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande:
Deep ruby. Quite rich nose, plums and blueberries, vanilla and spices. Medium acidity, ripe tannins, good length. 85

2008 Casa Ferreirinha Quinta da Leda:
Deep ruby. Blueberries, plums, vanilla, spices. Medium acidity, ripe tannins, fruitdriven and rounded, long. 88

1992 Casa Ferreirinha Reserva:
(Magnum) Deep ruby, garnet rim. Spicy, cinamon, figs, licorice and some vanilla. Christmas flavoured black tea. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, slightly drying finish if I'm picky, but far more interesting than its more fruitdriven siblings. Long. 90

3 from Château Falfas

2011 Château Falfas les Demoiselles de Falfas:
Bio since 1988. Ruby, fruitdriven blue- and blackberries nose. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant, balanced, refreshing finish. 85

2008 Château Falfas:
Ruby. Again fruitdriven with some herbs and nettles, green tea and some coffee. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced, easy and good length. 86

2008 Château Falfas le Chevalier:
Ruby. Vanilla and barrel notes overshadowing the fruit a bit, somewhat scented behind there. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, more elegant palate with more subdued barrel notes but oak tannins are there. Good length. 87 to be kind. 

Six from Lafarge

2009 Lafarge Bourgogne Aligoté Raisins Dorés:
Pale lemon yellow. Creamy, lemony nose. Fresh acidity, elegant texture, gentle palate, balanced. Made from 75 years old vines. 86

2009 Lafarge Beaune Les Aigrots:
Pale lemon yellow. Rich, nuts, lemons and honey. Fresh acidity, finetuned, refreshing palate, apples and good length. Feels less rich on the palate. 88

2009 Lafarge Bourgogne Pinot Noir:
Bright ruby. Slightly raw nose still of just ripe strawberries. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant fruit and texture, good length. 86

2009 Lafarge Volnay:
Pale ruby. Descreet nose of strawberries and redcurrants. Fresh acidity, elegant tannins, fresh, quite lively but also ripe at the same time. Feels giving for Lafarge. 88

2009 Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chines:
Bright ruby. Elegant red berries and floral nose with some vanilla. Lovely acidity, ripe tannins, very elegant texture, long. 91

2008 Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans:
Pale ruby. Strawberries and scented, slightly of roses. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, elegant and subdued, again feels open for Lafarge. 91

Monday, 3 December 2012

Vinmonopolets kontroll av media





Etter at jeg begynte å skrive om vin, istedenfor å selge den, har min verden blitt anderledes. Konkurrenter som tidligere skulte mot en har plutselig blitt svært pratsomme. Men det som kunne oppfattes som ett tungrodd og fiendtlig system som importør(ansatt) hvor man lett kjente Vinmonopolets represalier om man ikke var flink nok, rask nok, imøtekommende nok, og billig nok, det systemet velger også sin presse. Det overrasket.

I Norge har vi ett Vinmonopol som kontrollerer vårt inntak av de edle dråper. Vel, i alle fall den andelen av det som våre politikeres glade skatter ikke gjør om til svenske- og tax-free handel, eller Harryhandel som man liker å kalle det, om du som privatperson ønsker å spare noen kroner. Man kunne kanskje gjort karriere av å møte opp på Systembolagets nyhetssmakinger, og så skrive for deres mange norske kunder. 

Vinmonopolet har en nyhetssmaking rett før spesialslippene i sine flaggskipbutikker, Vika og Valkendorfsgate. Ikke noe er spesielt så lang, men så kommer det jeg stusset over fra dag én som skribent. Det er ikke din kunnskap i og rundt det vinfaglige som avgjør om man inviteres til gildet. Nei, det er hvor du skriver, om du har nok lesere, hvor publiseres du? Unnskyldningen er at de ikke har råd til å åpne mange av hver av disse eksklusive flaskene til alle vinskribenter som kunnen tenke seg å skrive om de, og det sier seg jo selv. Men å forhindre hundrevis av amatørmessige vin- og matbloggere kunne man gjort enkelt ved å sette krav til skribentens kunnskap, enten med vinfaglig utdanning eller erfaring. 99% av bloggerne hadde raskt vært ute av bildet. 

Men det er hvor du poster som er det viktigste. Helst en av Norges største aviser, eller i ett av to inviterte magasiner. Ganske snevert egentlig. Når enkelte av disse journalistene sjelden har (i alle fall ved de to smakingene jeg har vært tilstede på så langt) tid til å smake seg igjennom alle vinene, men går underveis, eller ikke engang møter opp til sine eksklusive plasser, blir det hele enda mer bisart. Og av disse få plasser er det i tillegg enkelte publikasjoner som opptar hele to plasser hver. 

Mange kompetente skribenter får aldri invitasjonen, fordi avisen, nettsiden, bloggen eller magasinet man skriver for ikke er fornemt nok for Vinmonopolet. Vi har med andre ord ett selvgodt, statskontrollert Vinmonopol, som kontrollerer pressen. Om du kun når fem tusen lesere er det ikke bra nok for Vinmonopolet. Om du er spesialist i hva som er tema for smakingen er ikke relevant. Og Gud forby at kundene måtte lete opp en ny kilde til informasjon. Nei, det er tryggest med de gamle, de som alltid har skrevet, og sikkert alltid har gått underveis. Da vet jo du som leser at alle har gjort en god jobb, nettopp for deg. 

Og skulle du lure? Joda, en slags invitasjon kom til pressesmakingen i morgen tidlig, denne gangen også. Men det føles noe uetisk å gå, og jeg blir hjemme. (Jeg har ikke nok lesere siden jeg ikke skriver for de største heller, så invitasjonene sendes med stor skepsis). Dette selv om smakingen dreier seg i hovedsak om nettopp min spesialkompetanse, vin fra Bordeaux, ett distrikt hvor få av Norges vinskribenter innehar min kunnskap.  Ett distrikt hvor selv en av Spesialrådgiverne hos Vinmonopolet, spør meg underveis på smakingene om jeg er enig eller uenig i dennes erfaringer. Men kunnskapen er ikke nummer én viser det seg, men lesermengden. Vinmonopolet er blitt tabloid. Kanskje Se og Hør burde få seg en vinskribent?

(NB, dette er ikke ment som en kritikk mot skribenter som har annet fore på gitte tidspunkt hvor det holdes smakinger. Det er også pressens frihet å kun delta på det de selv føler er relevant eller verd tiden. Men det har alltid vært nok vin i vareprøvene til minst fem deltagere til, på smakingene jeg har deltatt på, og når noen av de faste skribentene ikke kan møte, hvorfor har man ikke da en venteliste med navn man ringer til? Og hvorfor sendes ikke invitasjonen ut til tredve eller femti kompetente skribenter og påmeldingen skjer etter først til mølla prinsippet? Da hadde de satte måtte yte litt ekstra de også).