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Sunday 15 January 2012

Madeira of the week 3: 1932 D'Oliveiras Verdelho


1932 D'Oliveiras Verdelho;
Deep amber, orange rim. A touch of VA obsures this one a bit, caramel, nuts and spices. Fresh acidity, quite rich, fuller body than some Verdelho's, long finish. 88

Alex Lidell states in his Madeira book that: Verdelho in Madeira is different from Verdelho Branco or Gouveio, the variety of Verdelho found on the mainland Portugal, but is the same variety found on the Azores. Verdelho was the commonest variety until Phyloxera, at which time it was estimated to two- thirds of the island's vineyards, but now has the smallest production of the classical varieties (Bastardo, Terrantez and Moscatel is rarer by the way). It was not regarded as anything other than a good variety until early this century, when it was elevated to classical status.

Verdelho now grows mainly on the north side of the island, where it is more suited to the harsher climatic conditions. Must has marked acidity, and normally a potential alcohol of 10-12% Verdelho is often reffered to as medium rich, and the driest after Sercial. One producer, Artur de Barros e Sousa normally make a drier Terrantez, but this grape is normally similar or slightly sweeter, at least on the palate, than Verdelho.

I have not been able to find any other tasting note on this 1932 Verdelho, from any sources.

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