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Thursday, 25 March 2010

67 Giacosa Riserva


1967 Bruno Giacosa, Barbaresco Asili Riserva;
A level fill, pale ruby, thin orange rim. Sour cherries, leather and tobacco overtones, intence acidity, cleans perfectly, fresh, tannins still youthfull, but manageable, great structure, fantastic balance, even if the acidity is as fresh as a icy waterfall, long, firm finish. I do not understand this producer at all while young, but my God, how they age! 94

64 Barolo


1964 Giovanni Manzone Barolo;
Bright ruby, orange rim. Coffee, deep fruit, insane acidity, slightly metallic, fresh and long, but in this company, not that exciting. 84

The perfect dinner table

57 Cappellano


1957 Cappellano Barbaresco;
A/B level fill. Bright garnet, orange rim. Intence with warm fruits, floral and so seductive, even if a bit on the warm style, fresh acidity, mature, fantastic balance, at peak, absolutely fabolous, crazy how fresh and mouthwatering it is, fantastic long length, a marvel of a wine. 97

64 Barolo


1964 Damilano Barolo Riserva;
Deep ruby, thin orange rim, coffee, frying fat, bacon, big, good acidity, ripe tannins, huge for a La Morra Barolo, but not that interesting to be honest, but good enough. 82

1958 Gaja Barolo Riserva

Colour of the 1958 Gaja Barolo Riserva


1958 Gaja Barolo Riserva;
A level fill, cork "glued" to the bottle, so we had to make a hole with the bottle opener. I do not know if it got cloudy after beeing poured or not. Pale garnet, towards red-orange. Lean and a bit soapy on the nose, but all of that changes in the mouth. Absolute perfect balance, fresh acidity, total elegance, beautifull and seductive, on the gentle side, layered, getting more and more intence with air, liquorice, floral overtones, leather and a mindblowing length. 95

64 Gaja


1964 Gaja Barbaresco;
A level fill, cork only half soaked, bright ruby, orange rim, lots of sediments. Pepper and dark fruits, liquorice, intence leather and tobacco. Superb balance, fresh acidity, very precise, perfect mouthfeel, tannins almost gone, complex, actually quite elegant Barbaresco, very long finish. 94

85 Riserva


1985 Bruno Giacosa, Faletto di Serralunga Barolo Riserva;
Bright ruby, thin orange rim. Tobacco, cigars, tar and roses, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, balanced, lean body, developing, complex, balanced, anis hints and floral overtones, great fruit underneath, long finish. 92

66 Ducru Beaucaillou


1966 Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou;
(demi) C/D level fill, bright ruby, orange rim. Green herbs and paprika, very Cab F first, then minerals, earth, leather, then more and more perfumed and floral. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, big and lean at the same time, very long finish. Served blind, and missed by everyone by twenty years. 89

La Chapelle, so seductive


1982 Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage La Chapelle;
Pale ruby, brick rim, super elegant, some herbal and peppery notes, red and dark fruit, beautifull balance, fresh acidity, seductive and vibrant as few, ripe tannins almost gone, great structure, long length. Why on earth do Jaboulet not make this wine in this style anymore, that is a sign of insanity. 93

My twin Clerico


1979 Clerico, Barolo Vigna Bricotto della Bussia;
Pale ruby, orange rim, cloudy. Tomato, almost ketchup, slightly green tannins, high acidity, lean body, more floral, tobacco and coffee with air, more and more intence after 25 minutes, better structure even and way more complex, long finish, but it's a roller coaster, going up and down, back and forth, and the tomato issue always lurking and ruining an otherwice fine wine. 87, and then I'm kind.

06 Chassagne

2006 Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet;
Pale golden, minerals, melon, lemon, lime, pears, intence, young and fresh. Lively acidity, mouthwatering minerality in the mouth, shattering, so alive, very complex, long length, fantastic now. 89

1980 Opus One


1980 Opus One;
Deep ruby, brick rim, some sediments, developed, dark fruits, chocolate, black tea, cigars, very elegant floral touch, kind of hanging above the rest, complex and deep. Good acidity, very mature tannins, sour cherries and stone fruit, leanish body, very vibrant, seductive nose, even herbs, incence, prunes and red plums, good length. 89

1992 Opus One


1992 Opus One;
Deep ruby, garnet rim, gorgeous nose, very complex, tobacco, cedar, some vanilla, blackcurrants, hints of prunes, fine leather, developing aromas. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, great structure, fabolous balance, very elegant, some stone fruits, and fantastic length. Peaking about now and over the next five years, will last longer. 95

1993 Opus One


1993 Opus One;
Deep ruby, thin brick rim, fine leather, more developed notes, complex, needs air to show, floral underneath, opens up into an intence floral garden, marvelous after a while, needs time to show, elegant tannins, fresh acidity, plums, great balance, quite seductive, even if not as expresive and layered as other Opus Ones. This is for ease of enjoyment rather than a study. 92

1997 Opus One


1997 Opus One;
Deep ruby, garnet rim, quite youthfull and closed still, blackcurrants, pepper and liquorice, floraland coffee notes. Great balance, fantastic structure, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, cedar after a while in the glass, cigars, plums and prunes, elegant, and very long finish, wait another 6-10 years. 94 for now.

2005 Opus One


2005 Opus One;
Deep ruby, thin purple rim, youthfull, paprika, cassis, vanilla, complex, fruitdriven and very fresh. Vibrant acidity, mouthwatering, dark fruits, ripe tannins, complex, elegant and balanced, very long finish, needs 10-15 years minimum. 94

2006 Opus One


2006 Opus One;
Deep ruby, thin purple rim, vanilla, fruitdriven, dark berries, chocolate, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, complex, pure youth, great structure, wood tannins needs time, vanilla, plums, cassis, needs at least 10-15 years, will last longer. 93

Wednesday, 24 March 2010

05 BA, the day after

2005 Wegeler, Bernkasteler Doctor, Riesling Beerenauslese;
As the Doctor is, or at least was one of the best Einzelage of the Mosel, I think it's worth every second, as one tries these rarities out. Too often it fails. Both of the Thanisch estates is doing a horrible job to show the possibilities of this vineyard, and Wegeler is by far the best proprietor, even if they could sharpen things up a bit too. After beeing open 24 hours, this demi bottle is even better today than yesterday, pale golden, some crystals, botrytis, ripe apples, pears, apricots, honey, pure pineapple, almonds, strawberries, so intence, youthfull and complex. The acidity and sweetness balance is absolute perfection, neither is able to stick above each other, its like watching Jackie Chan dooing kung fu, you just marvel at how it's possible, and the aftertaste just does not stop. And still, it's like if the wine, the single drop of nectar whispers into your ear, "-We could have done even better, there is even more potential here......let me just tell you......" 99

64 Giacomo Conterno


1964 Giacomo Conterno, Barolo;
Orange colour, hot dog water, fond, slightly oxidized first, after quite a while, volatile, then leather, liquorice and slightly perfumed. High acidity, lean, tannins more or less gone, really needs the air to open, getting even more complex after 30 minutes, red berries, evolves a lot, fantastic balance, very fresh, long finish. I'm putting 92, but I'm not shure that I totally understood it.....

05 BA, what a beauty


2005 Wegeler, Bernkasteler Doctor, Riesling Beerenauslese;
(demi) Golden, some botrytis, apricots, lemon, floral notes, elegant, complex and youthfull. Perfect balance, and this is really perfect, pure, fresh, lively, exceptional, a true beauty, very long, fantastic elegance, superb and seductive......Keep a long time, if you're lucky. 96

Unfortunate


2004 Joh. Jos. Christoffel, Ürziger Würzgarten, Riesling Eiswein;
(demi) This bottle was unfortunately on a road trip that was to warm in the car, and I think that is why it did not show well. Pale golden, some grapefruit and artificial fruit, very closed and chemical, OLW cheez doodles. Exceptional acidity, perfect balance with the residual sugar, it dances on the tongue.......I have tasted it on several occations, and its just beautifull, just not this one........

Hmmm, what happened?


1997 Chateau Raymond Lafon;
(demi) What a strange one, I normally really love this chateau........Golden, glue, botrytis behind, hints of minerals, complex and youthfull, floral, roses, jasmin and green tea, good balance, burnt almonds, marmalade, orange peel, elegant, sweet, long finish, ruined by alcoholic touch.....84

Alcohol, but especially glue hit hard on an otherwise great wine, bottle fault? I hope so.......

Finally, beautifull old Alsace


1989 Trimbach, Riesling Clos Ste Hune, Vendange Tardive;
Clear golden, petroleum starting to show, some botrytis, unripe pears and apricots, underneath some minerla touch, orange peel, cinamon and other spices. Fantastic, even great acidity at first, kind of Mosel elegance with Rheingau fruit, perfect balance, yellow plums, layered, very long finish, and what a elegance, gorgeous. Unfortunatelly after an hour or so, getting bigger and almost flaby compared to how it was, very Alsatian, overipe, well, it kind of ruined it all, even if still very good. First 94, then 86. If you have one, drink it during the first 45 minutes to one hour after you open it.

1976 Pfalz


1976er Bassermann-Jordan, Forster Jesuitengarten, Riesling Auslese;
Golden with amber hue, mineral, bubble gum, caramel, mineral car oil, honey, deep fruit, apricots. Fresh acidity and very developed, firm structure still, complex, wood polish, long finish. Would this get more mineral notes with more air as the Rheingaus? 91
2006 Ramonet Bourgogne Blanc;
Pale golden yellow, some minerals and deeper citrus, apples, quite complex for a Bourgogne blanc,fresh acidity, great mineraly body and finish, fresh and lively more than complex, enjoy it while young and fresh. 84

Monday, 22 March 2010

Saturday dinner

2007 Lequin Colin, Bourgogne Blanc;
(double magnum) Pale golden, light, fruity and tropical style, a bit on the lean side, should have had more acidity in 07, easy drinking, perfect for the terrace. 73
(Lacked a bit of acidity with the fish and creamsauce)

2004 Bodegas Mauro, Vino de la Tierra, Castilla Y Leon;
Mostly Temperanillo, almost opaque, deep ruby rim. Spicy, liquorice, dark fruits and blueberries, some barrel notes, but seems to be integrating well. Good structure, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, good balance, long aftertaste, will be interesting to see how it will mature. 87
(With roasted leg of dear, a very good match)

Domaine de Escaravailles, Rasteau;
I'm not shure if it is non vintage or not, but no vintage was noted. Deep ruby, sweet of dark fruits, prunes and hint of cinamon and spices. Fresh and fruity, well balanced, and elegant, good length. 87

2005 Fritz Haag, Brauneberger Sonnenuhr, Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel;
(magnum) Pale golden, clean apple, some pear, minerals, pineapple, hints of tropical, very youthfull, perfect balance, fresh acidity, cleans perfectly even if it doesn't show that much, this will imrove even more with cellaring. 92

Aldo and Giacomo Conterno


2000 Aldo Conterno, Barolo Bussia;
Ruby with brick rim, tar, roses, tobacco, kind of soft and velvety feel, leather, very complex, lively acidity, great balance, some oak touch, very long tobacco finish. 89

2005 Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Cascina Francia;
Pale ruby, brick rim, tar roses, floral notes, stone fruits, jasmin, hint of black tea and bergamot, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, great structure, leaner fruit, but the 14, 5 alcohol shines through unfortunatelly. 88

82 Suduiraut

1982 Chateau Suduiraut;
(Demi) Deep golden, amber hue, some botrytis and dried fruits, honey, floral, vanilla sugar, maturing and very complex. Drier in mouth than expected, caramelized sugar, apricots and cooked pear, good acidity and well balanced, ok finish. 84

88 Climens, 86 Lafaurie and 57 Aszu Essencia


1988 Chateau Climens;
Golden, botrytis, apricots, peach, pineapples and slightly herbal. Fresh acidity, then falls away, clean fruit, elegant but a bit boring, where is the acidity? Still 87

1986 Chateau Lafaurie Peyraguey;
Deep golden, such elegance, transparent and layered, fresh apricots, peach, botrytis, gorgeous, exceptional complexity, such balance, ripe lemons, apples, honney, ads and ads with air, a marvel flavour profile and the overall balance of the wine, still young, will last a long time still, fantastic long finish. 95

1957 Mouimpex Budapest Satoraljaiyhely, Tokaji Aszu Essencia;
Brown, slightly oxidized, some sherry notes, salt and nuts. Quite visqous, elegant acidity, very PX in aromas with less sugar, slihtly burnt caramel and roasted almonds, elegant body, long length. 90

Old Alsace and one Rheingau


1983 Leon Beyer,Tokaj Pinot Gris Vendange Tardives;
Pale golden, burnt rubber, warm alcohol. Lacks everything, there is a kind of freshness here, in the finish, just to big, and then dies of. 56

1983 Trimbach, Gewürztraminer Vendange Tardives;
Deep golden, some minerality, almost no acidity, bitter, drying out it seems, a bit alcoholic. 60

1989 Hugel, Tokaj Pinot Gris Vendange Tardives;
Deep golden, canned mushrooms, more acidity, more elegant, but not too complex even here, a dissapointing trio. 68

1971 Langwerth Von Simmern, Rauenthaler Baiken, Riesling Auslese; Auction wine
Pale amber, petroleum, freshly cooked crayfish, apricots and pineapple, very clean and elegant, marmelade and orange peal. Fresh and quite youthfull expression, even as it has developed features, long and complex, and a huge star after those Alsacians. 90

91 and 66 Mouton and 66 Las Cases


1983 Chateau Rauzan Gassies;
Ruby with brick rim, some coffee, stone fruits, cooked paprika. Quite elegant, but lacks complexity and length. 75

1991 Chateau Mouton Rothschild;
Ruby with garnet rim, such elegance, seductive, leather, blackcurrants, paprika, some spices, complex, fantastic balance, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit lean finish, but surprisingly good. Will last quite a bit longer, but will probably not improve much. 90

1966 Chateau Leoville Las Cases;
Ruby with orange rim, leather, some sweet overtones, black tea, liquorice and hints of green paprika, blackcurrants, such complexity and elegance. Fresh mouthfeel, great maturing structure, mouthwatering, very layered and fantastic length. 93

1966 Chateau Mouton Rothschild;
A/B level fill, ruby with garnet rim, more youthfull, sweet tobacco, sweet dark fruits, such elegance, gaining in complexity with air, intence, totally different to the bottle a few weeks back, this one is far better, seductive, fresh acidity, mature tannins, perfect balance, such elegance. Fantastic finish. 94

1986 Aussie vs two Bordeaux


1986 Penfolds Bin 707 Coonawarra/Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon;
Ruby red rim, huge, intence sweetness, with green paprika, cassis, alwys on the sweet side, sweet tobacco. Very blackcurrant lemonade, fresh acidity that handles it well, lacks structure, ok finish. 85

1986 Chateau Cos d'Estournel;
Deep ruby with thin garnet rim, coffee, liquorice, floral, slightly sweet fruit behind, fresh spices and herbs, like a rack of lamb befor being grilled. Fresh fruit, even slightly cool with the sweetness, fresh acidity,ripe and now quite mature tannins, oak shows trough a bit. Good length. 86

1986 Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou;
Ruby with brick rim, coffee, chocolate, blackcurrants, paprika, carrot!, floral notes, some minerality and quite perfumed. Fresh acidity and elegant tannins and almost seductive body, with a slightly green and herbal finish that could be longer. 89

1947 and 1961 Borgogno


1961 Borgogno, Barolo Riserva;
Ruby with orange rim, lots of liquorice and leather, some dust and hay. Great structure, fresh acidity, and almos soursweet strawberries, long finish. More developed and less fruity than other bottles I have had. 89

1947 Borgogno, Barolo Riserva;
Amber with brick hue. Slightly oxidized, liquorice, some fruits behond, redcurrants, rose hips and truffles. Lean body, fantastic acidity, marvelous structure, fantastic and mature, hints of Madeira Sercial, fantastic length. Seductive for old wine lovers, but could be more complex. 92

Wednesday, 17 March 2010

71 Gaja Barbaresco


1971 Gaja Barbaresco;
Pale ruby, orange rim. What a marvel on the nose, lost for words, complex, mature,elegant, seductive as few, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit hollow fruit and lean body, it never cathces up with that nose unfortunately, but very long. Probably needed more air. 90

My twin Sori San Lorenzo and Gaja Barbaresco


1979 Gaja Barbaresco;
Ruby, orange rim, some oak, hardwood floors, wood polish, dark fruits, liquorice. Fresh fruit, oak shines through, and drying woody finish, even wood tannins, great fruit ruined by too much oak. 82

1979 Gaja, Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo;
Bright ruby, cherries, morellos, liquorice, quite closed, and doesn't wan't to open. Fantastic strawberry and raspbery fruit, very elegant and fresh, can handle the oak much better, great structure, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, a bit short finish. 87

Quote of the month

"-You cannot compare a barrel sample to a mature wine."
Rune Rake on 1971 Gaja Barbaresco vs 1947 Borgogno Barolo Riserva, 4th of March, 2010

82 and 71 Produtori


1982 Produtori del Barbaresco, Paje, Barbaresco Riserva;
Ruby with orange rim. Closed first, then dried fruits and leather, some of that vanilla seeds again, sweet prunes or something in that direction. Heavy somehow, tannins still although ripe, high acidity, intence but a bit short for a Barbaresco. 86

1971 Produtori del Barbaresco, Montestefano, Barbaresco Riserva;
Ruby with almost brownish hue. Some perfumed and slightly metallic and fresh meat on the nose. Ripe tannins, fresh acidity, mature fruit, prunes, drink now, on the verge of drying out. Just this bottle? 84

Two 78's from Produttori


1978 Produttori del Barbaresco, Rabaja, Barbaresco Riserva;
Ruby, orange rim. Black tea, bergamot, dark fruits underneath, quite intence, lots of fruit, but not layered, big structure and the fruit holds it well, very complex, and one have to love the flavours of the fruit. Really well made. 89

1978 Produttori del Barbaresco, Rio Sordo, Barbaresco Riserva;
Ruby with orange rim. More elegant, developed, some rose hips, warmer fruit, some leather behind, vanilla, not from oak, but vanilla seeds, great floral note. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins that still builds a wall, layered, elegant, this is getting there, very long length. Drink now, but will last longer. 90

Chateau de Beaucastel, 90, 89, 88 and 86


I did not see the fill level on all, and wasn't quick enough to take a note. All was A to B level, with one or two A, one or two A/B and one B. All bottles decanted and put back into the bottle about 20 minutes before tasting. The levels of fill shown on the pictures is after decanting, and some had a lot of sediment, but it also show that at least the 86 and 88 had a very high fill, both probably A. I think that the 90 was poured from already.

1990 Chateau de Beaucastel;
Ruby with brick rim. Some stable and dry leaf, more leather with air, darker fruits and some perfume. Very tannic, a wall of tannins, good acidity, the structure of the wine needs time, it's abit raw, but also slightly chilled quite rustic, very long length, I just hope the fruit lasts as well. Neds another five years to come round. For now. 88

1989 Chateau de Beaucastel;
Ruby with brick rim. Liquorice and leafy, heavy tobacco, only secondary aromas, softer tannins, fresher acidity, good structure, but a bit lean fruit, kind of hollow, still elegant, but I fear of faulty storage? 83

1988 Chateau de Beaucastel;
Bright ruby, brick rim, stable, mushrooms, hay, liquorice and dark berries, some chocolate. Very elegant structure, rounded, not too complex for a Beaucastel, but a charmer, slightly herbal finish. 86

1986 Chateau de Beaucastel;
Bright ruby, brick rim. Fresher than the 88, some polished wood, liquorice, almost cedar, elegant of prunes, fruitdriven and still quite developed. Very elegant structure, fresh acidity, mature tannins, mouthwatering, complex, leaner than the others, but maybe more elegant as a bonus, long finish. The only one that seems ready. 87

Even if I'm a bit dissapointed, there was a very clear line of the house style through the flight. I think both 90 and 89 will show better with a few more years in bottle for the 90, and a better stored one for the 89.

The end of a perfect dinner party


Pictures I'm getting more and more fond of, the mood from the dinners, and tastings, here a lot of glasses, empty bottles of greatness, and a notebook that hasn't been closed......

Lescure Vougeot


2001 Chantal Lescure, Clos de Vougeot;
Bright runy. Some spices over fresh soil and beautifull strawberries, still some vanilla, but finally the oak is loosening it's grip, and a beautifull fruit shines through. I was always a bit unshure if it had the intencity to pull through, and it definitelly had. Complex, layered, good acidity, tannins needs another few years, and the oak would probably be fully integrated by then as well.very long finish. 90

85 Unico


1985 Vega-Sicilia Unico;
Deep ruby, brick rim, lots of sediments. A level fill, cork 2/3 soaked. Liquorice, dark fruits, leather, complex but a bit vague, it doesn't lack in concentration either, it's just always drifting away as you try to reach for something. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, lingering, elegant, complex, a lot is always going on, but very elusive, long length. 90

1964 Chateau Latour


1964 Chateau Latour;
Dark ruby, brick rim. B/C level fill, soaked cork. Liquorice, sweet tobacco, hay, some blackcurrants, gorgeous nose, some ripe tannins still, fresh acidity, quite intence, extremelly complex, almost at such a degree, that you can't decipher it all, perfect structure, truly impressive, and exceptionaly long finish. 96

1966 Chateau Mouton Rothschild


1966 Chateau Mouton Rothschild;
Dark ruby, brick rim, B/C-C level fill, soaked cork. Tiering, leather and leafy, lots of dust, fresh acidity, quite hollow mid palate, good length, has big trouble next to the 64 Latour, would probably have done better by itself, but this bottle haven't had the best life. Another 66 tasted only a week later was far superior. 80

1982 Chateau Mouton Rothschild


1982 Chateau Mouton Rothschild;
Deep ruby, thin brick rim, A level fill, soaked cork. Some dark fruits, floral notes, some green paprika, tobacco, herbs, some liquorice, even leather behind. Great structure, fresh acidity, a bit hollow on the mid palate, very long length. Not as lively and delicate as one bottle a few weeks back, this seems less developed, and maybe not as well stored? This had also travelled further just a week before. Lots of things that could have played a part. 93

Future legend


1998 Penfolds Grange;
Deep ruby with ruby rim. Liquorice, pepper, very youthfull, intence and still elegant, flirting as only Grange can, at it's best. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, great structure, so complex, slightly sweet, but sweet just for perfection towards the structure, so young, fantastic length, a true beauty, and a future legend in my book. Amazing with this intencity, elegance and structure. Keep a long time. 98

06 Combettes


2006 Jean Marc Boillot, Puligny Montrachet, Les Combettes;
Pale lemon yellow, fresh lemony and floral with underlaying minerality. Crisp minerality even, later on, well put togheter, but doesn't thrill, lacks some complexity and, well, I'm not shure, Leflaive? Ok, I'm beeing harse, it is a really good wine, no doubt about it, but there is this feeling, it could do even better. 88

82 Georg Breuer


1982 Georg Breuer, Berg Schlossberg, Riesling Kabinett;
Pale lemon, A level, soaked cork. So youthfull! Lemon, starting petroleum, strawberries, orange, transparent, layered. Slightly sweet, very polished acidity for a riesling, fresh as a daisy, fantastic balance and long lenght. Not as mineral as I hoped, but from quite a new experience, it should probably have been decanted, maybe even over night. These old Rheingau's needs more breathing than one thinks. Still 89

90, 82 and 57


1990 Ramonet Bienvenue Batard Montrachet;
Oxidized

1982 Chateau Laville Haut Brion;
Deep lemon yellow, A level fill, soaked cork. Some yellow fruits, floral, almost petroleum minerality, honey and apricots. Fantastic balance, amazing acidity, playfull and lively, minerality of a different world, fantastic length. My second Laville, and my God, I'm a fan. They truly age beautifully, and act much younger than they are. 96

1957 Leroy, Nuits St Georges, Les Porets;
Pale ruby, broad brick rim, lots of sediments, soaked cork, A-level fill. First a wiff of earth, then some leaves, white tea, hints of sweet tobacco, rose hips, dried fruits and plums. Very high acidity, lean body, fresh and fantastic, a bit short, and you have to love it. My seventh or eight bottle, this was not of the best ones, but remarkable that they show so little variation at this age. 92

06 BA


2006 Phillips Eckstein, Graacher Domprobst, Riesling Beerenauslese;
Pale golden, botrytis, overripe pears, pineapples, green apples, orange and minerals behind. Fresh acidity, lemony freshness, floral notes and pez candy. Good balance, quite complex, but way to short, needs air, and gets more fruity. 87

92 Mouton


1992 Chateau Mouton Rothschild;
Bright ruby, very thin brick rim, A level fill. Leather, liquorice, tobacco, dark fruits and cassis, deep and layered, complex and developed. Good grip, mouthwatering. More complex, fresher fruit, and on the whole a far better wine than expected from this vintage. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, intence, very long, perfect maturation, drink now. 92

New from Cos d'Estournel


2005 Goulee;
This wine comes from the team of Cos d'Estournel, from Port de Goulee in the north of Medoc, on soil they believe to be as good as the ones of the classed growths further south, and thus vinified as such. I do not know about the soil, but the wine is ruby, nose is lovelly, paprika, blackcurrants, some cigar, slightly herbal, very elegant, complex, great balance, fresh acidity, ripe tannins, seductive for a wine of this pricerange, impressive, long length. 89